Welcome to our new luxxee magazine weekly wrap-up, where we bring you fresh news about what's going on in the watch world
A member of the Holy Trinity, reborn: The Vacheron Constantin 222
If you have a long history as a brand, why not bring it back? Over the last few years, multiple watch brands in all price brackets have dug through their archives to unearth designs lost to time or to pull on enthusiasts' heartstrings with designs they may have forgotten or ones that render a specific memory from years past. With the return of the watch trade show earlier this year with Watches & Wonders, brands had the opportunity to unveil new products to the public in person for the first time since the last Basel World back in 2019. Many brands showcased new designs and concepts, but one watch from Vacheron Constantin blew me away.
The watch in question is the rebirth of the Vacheron Constantin 222, a watch created in response to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus back in the 1970s. The Royal Oak was the first released in 1972, followed by the Nautilus in 1976 and one year later, the 222 in 1977. For clarification, this was the era of the first sports watches with integrated bracelets and the first attempt to prove that stainless steel could be used in luxury watches. All three brands became the very example that stainless steel can be luxurious.
While the original 222 was released in stainless steel, the reissue has been released in yellow gold. An interesting choice since the original was designed to prove the luxury factor of steel as opposed to other precious metals. In saying that, there is a possibility that V.C. will release a stainless steel version. Ironically, the material choice is the only apparent difference between the vintage and modern versions. The reissue looks almost identical to its predecessor except for a few changes in smaller details (the position of the date window and the new bracelet clasp.)
The modern 222 uses the Vacheron Constantin calibre 2455, an in-house automatic movement developed by VC in 2007 and has since become a staple for all their products. The watch features a display case back, showing the movement's beautiful decoration, mechanics and design, including a beautiful gold rotor with an engraved “222,” a tribute to the vintage model which had “222” engraved on the case back.
The modern 222 is a beautiful recreation of a watch that helped shape the Swiss watch industry from a design perspective and a design that will be timeless for generations to come. All I hope to see is a stainless steel version to be an authentic reissue.
Grand Seiko’s new sports collection with a quartz surprise
Grand Seiko is at the top of the ladder regarding Japanese watchmaking and craftsmanship. The Japanese brand gives many Swiss brands a run for their money with their excellent detail, finishing and technology to bring their timepieces to life. Over the last few years, Grand Seiko watches have been in the spotlight with its Spring Drive technology, but people forget the brand is also known for beautiful quartz watches.
Grand Seiko decided to dig into their already iconic sports designs and add some additional functionality to create a gorgeous sports/tool watch. Grand Seiko recently unveiled two new watches, SBGN027 & SBGN029; quartz sports watches featuring a GMT complication. With the dressier Heritage Collection released earlier this summer, the new GMT is a perfect follow-up.
The new Grand Seiko GMT features all stainless steel construction, a 39mm case, a matching stainless steel 24-hour bezel insert for setting multiple timezones, and an epic dial contrast, offering a black and blue dial, respectively. The black dial features a black/silver inner chapter ring, while the blue dial features a blue/silver chapter ring– an excellent detail that adds a beautiful contrast and makes the dial pop.
The one thing that threw me for a loop with the design was the GMT hand; the blue dial implements a bright red arrow, while the black dial remains with the black and silver aesthetic using a silver arrow. The black dial would benefit significantly from this pop of colour, but that’s just my opinion.
The heart of the new GMT is a special one. Bringing the watch to life is the Grand Seiko Calibre 9F86, known for being the most excellent quartz movement ever made due to its reliability and timekeeping capabilities. With a movement accuracy of +/- 10 seconds PER YEAR, this high accuracy movement is perfect to complete these beautiful sports watches, ultimately making them an ideal travel companion in your watch roll.
Credor’s mechanical work of art: The GBBY983
Most people are familiar with Seiko and its “luxury” equivalent, Grand Seiko. Still, a whole other level of watchmaking from Seiko rarely talked about is Credor. For those who don’t know the brand, Credor Eichi watches, established in 2008, is meant to be Seiko’s official luxury line of watches, while most think Grand Seiko takes the luxury crown. Credor’s primary purpose is to display the art of minimalistic, simple Japanese design with high-class finishing, materials and mechanics.
Credor has taken Seiko technology and pushed it to its limits, creating something extraordinary. For example, Credor took the Spring Drive technology from Grand Seiko and created a beautiful minute repeater. Making works of art is a specialty for Credor, but their recent release in the GBBY983 or “Dream of the Butterfly” takes it to the next level.
A mechanical marvel, “Dream of the Butterfly” is a perfect example of Japanese craftsmanship. The watch features a 38.8mm platinum case, a hand-engraved white gold dial created by Kiyoshi Teuri and six yellow gold butterflies. The best feature of the watch is the animated or working dial. The dial is a rotating plate that the crown can set, which activates the golden butterflies, making their wings flap, creating mechanical magic. The dial features two blued steel hands to tell the hour and minute.
Shifting the focus to the back of the watch, you’re greeted with a display case back featuring the beautifully decorated calibre 6890. The movement decoration is all done free-hand and features blooming flowers and two beautiful butterflies. The Credor “Dream of the Butterfly” is pure art created by the greatest minds in Japanese watchmaking and accurately represents why watchmaking is such beautiful art. The watch is currently a 1/1 and priced at $465,000.
Thank you for taking the time to read this week's weekly wrap-up. Check in next week for more news in the watch world.
