Some watches are so famous and popular that they are simply known by their model names without the need for the brand attached to them. Think Daytona, Speedmaster, and Tank, made by Rolex, Omega, and Cartier, respectively. These are no doubt legendary watches, which are not only sought after by watch enthusiasts but also generally recognized by non-watch folk too.
Conversely, every watchmaker has several lesser-known models too; it’s unrealistic to think that every watch will be an instant hit — regardless of how big the watch brand is. There is always going to be a watch collection (for instance the Rolex Milgauss) or two (Air-King) that sit in the shadows of their mega-popular siblings (Submariner or GMT-Master.)
Some buyers actively look for watches that are not hype watches. They may not want to show up to a party only to discover that about a dozen other people in the room are wearing the same watch. If you’re going to spend a significant sum on a timepiece, why not choose one that you’ll unlikely see out in the wild?
Whether you want to call them undiscovered gems, under-the-radar references, or overlooked pieces, here are some overshadowed luxury watches that are worth another look.
Rolex Cellini
The Cellini is not only Rolex’s most mispronounced watch collection (it’s cheh-lee-nee after the Italian Renaissance man, Benvenuto Cellini, in case you were wondering) but also the Crown’s least famous.
It’s been around since the 1960s, and unlike Rolex’s other famed watches that sport water-resistant cases (a.k.a. Oyster cases) and automatic movements (a.k.a. Perpetual cases), the Cellini was, for decades home to a wide assortment of non-water resistant dress timepieces that typically ran on either manual winding movements or battery-operated quartz movements. The Cellini range of yore was an eclectic mixture of watches—sometimes classically round, sometimes sternly square, and sometimes, even wildly asymmetrical.
However, that all changed in 2014 when Rolex unveiled a revamped Cellini lineup, which was now home to a variety of models that share a common design language. This new-generation of Rolex Cellini features 39mm round cases (available in white or rose gold), leather straps, and automatic movements. Since these are classically designed dress watches, Rolex added plenty of traditional decorative techniques such fine fluting on the bezels, guilloché on the dials, and dauphine-style hands. The various versions include the Cellini Time, Cellini Date, Cellini Dual Time, and our personal favorite, the Cellini Moonphase.
If you want a Rolex that’ll stand out from the sea of Oyster sports watches out there, then the Cellini Moonphase deserves your attention.
Omega Globemaster
The Globemaster name has been a part of Omega’s history since 1953 when the company couldn’t use the name Constellation in the U.S. market due to copyright disputes. So the Constellation was renamed the Globemaster for Omega’s American clientele until the issue was resolved a few years later.
However, the Globemaster that we’re highlighting today is a modern collection that was launched in 2015. Despite its good looks and impressive mechanical ability, the Globemaster is an often-overlooked Omega watch since buyers are more drawn to models such as the Speedmaster and Seamaster. If you give the Omega Globemaster a chance, you’ll soon see that it has plenty to offer. In fact, Omega chose the Globemaster collection to debut its new-generation Master Chronometer movements.
Design-wise, the Globemaster borrows elements from famous vintage Omega watches including the fluted bezel, pie-pan dial, and the star on the dial. What’s more, the hour hand can be set independently by jumping forwards or back in one-hour increments, which is especially handy for frequent flyers. Along with the standard Globemaster that measures 39mm, Omega also makes a slightly larger Globemaster Annual Calendar with a 41mm case, complete with a fourth hand on the dial that points to the 12 months printed along the periphery.
In true Omega fashion, the Globemaster is available in a variety of metals and colorways, each paired with an elegant leather strap. While the Globemaster hasn’t been to the Moon or graced James Bond’s wrists (yet), it is still, in our opinion, a star in Omega’s lineup.
Cartier Drive
When Cartier announced the brand new Drive watch collection in 2016, it was big news. Cartier is known for its mastery of shaped watches and the cushion-shaped Drive watch is no exception. Despite the initial splashy marketing campaign that supported the Drive’s early years, Cartier has recently turned its attention to promoting already-established favorites like the Tank, Santos, and Pasha. The Drive is still very much there in Cartier’s catalog, but it certainly isn’t front and center anymore.
Even if Cartier isn’t paying too much attention these days to the Drive, we are. The Drive de Cartier is a terrific collection of men’s dress watches, ranging from simple two-hander Extra-Flat models with manual winding movements and automatic time and date versions with a running seconds subdial to high complications editions with flying tourbillons, moon phase displays, or day and night indicators. You can also pick cases in steel or gold, not to mention all the dial and leather strap colors on offer.
If you’re on the hunt for a good-looking Cartier watch that you’ll rarely see anyone else wearing, the Drive may be just what you need.
Underrated watches can be a good thing
These are all excellent watches made by top watch brands that — for one reason or another — don’t get the love they deserve. But that’s fantastic news for watch buyers that prefer lesser-known watches; it means not having to deal with long waitlists and sky-high secondary market prices.
If you were to search for these watches using luxxee's powerful search engine (which we highly recommend you do), we guarantee that you’ll find plenty of great options at appealing prices.
