Chronographs, which are watches equipped with a stopwatch function, were invented in the 1800s but really became essential instruments throughout the early-20th Century. Thanks to their ability to measure passing seconds, chronograph watches became indispensable tools across many disciplines including military, medicine, science, aviation, navigation, and racing. Yet, similar to most tool watches, chronograph watches are now admired more so for their sporty style rather than strictly for functionality. Some even like to wear a chronograph as their daily watch or weekend sports watch.
A chronograph watch is easily identifiable by chronograph pushers that protrude from the case and counters that sit on the dial. While there are some variations, there are generally two chronograph pushers that flank the winding crown on the right side of the case. The upper pusher serves to start and stop the chronograph hand while the bottom one resets the hand back to zero. Furthermore, most chronograph watches will have at least two counters on the dials and most of them have three. The counters track the elapsed minutes and hours once the chronograph hand has been activated and a third one is usually the running seconds indicator.
Many contemporary luxury chronograph watches are linked to racing and sports, and these usually come with bezels that have tachymeter scales to allow the measurement of average speeds and/or distances. If you’re into cars, motorsports, or just super cool chronographs, here are five of our favorite racing-inspired luxury chronographs right now.
TAG Heuer Monaco
The Tag Heuer Monaco chronograph not only stands out for its distinctive square-shaped case but also for its association with the classic racing film Le Mans (1971) and the venerable actor Steve McQueen. (Pre-TAG) Heuer launched the Monaco in 1969 as the world’s first water-resistant square watch and one of the company’s first watches to feature the then-new Caliber 11 automatic chronograph. While the original Monaco collection disappeared from the Heuer catalog sometime in the 1970s, TAG Heuer thankfully brought it back in 1997 and it now remains a mainstay of the brand’s lineup.
The modern Monaco chronograph collection has a few notable models to choose from. There’s the Monaco Caliber 11 “Steve McQueen” watch, which is directly inspired by the one worn in the Le Mans movie, complete with the winding crown on the left-hand side of the case. Then there are the Monaco watches dressed in Gulf racing livery—also inspired by the movie. Several contemporary Monaco chronographs retain the essential design blueprint but also come furnished with newer in-house movements and revamped details.
Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Squad
Breitling first introduced the Top Time chronograph collection in the 1960s. The then-new watches were made explicitly with the younger generation in mind, featuring stylish and often funky designs. Fast-forward to 2020, and Breitling announced the revival of the Top Time chronograph series, which has since expanded with several models.
Take for example the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Squad, which is a trio of brightly-colored chronographs inspired by three classic 1960s automobiles: The Chevrolet Corvette, the Ford Mustang, and the Shelby Cobra. While all three models feature steel cases and calfskin racing-themed watch straps, the red and black Chevrolet Corvette and the green and brown Ford Mustang versions sport 42mm cases while the blue and brown Shelby Cobra is more restrained at 40mm. Regardless of the specific version, the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Squad offers up a nostalgia-driven range of car-inspired chronographs that will no doubt appeal to classic car fans or vintage watch enthusiasts alike.
Tudor Heritage Chrono
In 2010, Tudor launched the Heritage Chrono model, which was based on Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph models from the 1970s. The modern revivals stay true to the vintage racing-style versions while also benefitting from updates such as larger cases (now 42mm), improved materials, and automatic movements. The bezel also changed from the original fixed tachymeter-one (to measure speeds and/or distances) to a bidirectional rotating one marked to 12-hours (for a second time zone display.)
A particularly striking version is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue with swathes of blue, pops of orange, and blocks of silvery opaline. This model is inspired by the now-iconic (and highly collectible) Tudor “Monte Carlo” chronographs from the seventies. Fun fact: the Monte Carlo nickname is not derived from any major auto races but rather, the dial’s resemblance to roulette tables in Monaco!
Omega Speedmaster Racing
Although the Omega Speedmaster is now best known for being a space exploration watch, before it became the “Moonwatch” it was a racing chronograph. The Speedmaster name says it all. Launched in 1957, the Speedmaster was developed for sports car enthusiasts; it was in fact, the very first watch to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel (and not only the dial) for improved legibility.
To remind us of the origins of this iconic chronograph, Omega offers the Speedmaster Racing (which is different from the famous Speedmaster Moonwatch) collection. Although the origins of the racing style dial design date back to about 1968, the newest generation Omega Speedmaster Racing chronographs were introduced in 2017. These motorsport-inspired Omega chronographs feature 44.25mm cases, two counters on the dial, a date window at 6 o’clock, and an automatic movement inside the case. In true Omega form, there are various materials and colors to choose from, but we favor the steel case, black dial, and black rally strap combination the most.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Born in the 1960s and named after the American city known as the center of motorsports, the Rolex Daytona is without a doubt the most famous, desired, and often, priciest, racing chronographs of them all. Rolex has made three generations of the Daytona chronograph so far: vintage manual-winding, automatic versions with modified Zenith movements, and automatic versions with in-house-made Rolex movements. We’re all about the newest-gen Daytona lineup—and judging by the immense popularity (and significant mark-ups on the secondary market) of these models, so are a lot of other watch enthusiasts!
However, our favorite Daytona may not be the obvious pick for a racing chronograph — the two-tone Rolex Daytona chronograph that marries stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. Why this one, you ask? Because since 2017, this is the model that’s been handed out to winning race teams at the Rolex 24 at Daytona! Featuring a 40mm case, tachymeter-engraved gold bezel, and two-tone Oyster bracelet, this is a classic luxury chronograph that looks fantastic on or off the track.
Start, Stop, Reset
Pre-owned chronograph watches are some of the most popular models in the secondary market. Given their sporty looks, frequent ties to the automobile world, and often interesting backstories, it's not at all surprising.
Watch brands, particularly luxury ones, have certainly taken notice of this growing demand, and have offered up plenty of vintage-inspired chronographs to satisfy current tastes.
If you're in the market for a secondhand chronograph made by the world's best luxury brands, check out luxxee's powerful search engine to make sure you score the best deal out there.
